Creative Director of Gucci
Frida Giannini's unique talent and
modern vision have fueled her rise as the leading creative
force behind one of the world's most celebrated fashion
houses.
Born in Rome in 1972 to an architect
father and art history professor mother, Giannini studied
fashion design at Rome's Fashion Academy before apprenticing
in a small ready-to-wear house. In 1997, she went to Fendi
where she worked as a ready-to-wear designer for three seasons
before being named designer for Fendi leathergoods.
In September 2002 she joined Gucci
as Handbag Design Director. Two years later she was appointed
to a newly created post, Creative Director of Accessories,
where she assumed unprecedented control of bags, shoes,
luggage, small leathergoods, silks, fine jewelry, gifts,
watches as well as eyewear. Giannini flourished in this
expanded role, and brought a powerful new perspective to
Gucci's accessories collections.
Using the Gucci archives as a starting point, she transformed
house classics such as the Flora scarf pattern and equestrian
iconography into novel and hugely successful designs.
In 2005, she was named Creative Director
of Gucci Women's ready-to-wear, in addition to her responsibility
for all accessories. In 2006, she took over menswear, thus
rising to sole Creative Director of the label. Giannini
accepted this significant responsibility with aplomb, quickly
establishing her individual stamp on the house. Her design
approach and focused management style are informed by sharp
confidence and decisiveness, as well as her uniquely feminine
and distinctly Italian point of view.
The combination has proven to be
powerful, as witnessed by her consistent ability to design
collections, which not only influence global fashion trends
but that are also directional at retail.
Under Giannini, a new design oeuvre for Gucci has emerged,
one which celebrates the house's inimitable past and its
expertise in luxury craftsmanship, all the while adding
youth, color and a playful extravagance.
Giannini has also assumed an expanded
creative authority beyond just design. She personally developed
the architectural and interior design environments for Gucci's
new store concept that has rolled out in major cities around
the world. Additionally, she is responsible for the creative
direction of all advertising campaigns and has worked with
such illustrious directors as David Lynch and Chris Cunningham.
Giannini has also been instrumental in bringing major celebrities
to the brand, selecting Drew Barrymore and Claire Danes
for the jewelry campaigns, James Franco for fragrance, and
working closely with Madonna and Rihanna on initiatives
for Raising Malawi and UNICEF.
Her broadening profile has allowed for increased social
responsibility as well. She is deeply dedicated to and instrumental
in Gucci's continued partnership with UNICEF, and she was
also named to the Board of Directors of PPR's Foundation
for Women's Dignity and Rights, an organization which fights
violence against women and promotes their empowerment.
Giannini's tenacity and unwavering
vision have steered Gucci successfully into its 21st century
guise. She is a new voice in fashion, one that champions
a lighter luxury for modern times. Her innovative designs
are a very personal interpretation of this venerable House:
not only does she extract the very best of Gucci, but she
has kept its privileged heritage firmly intact.
History
Gucci was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. In 1938, Gucci
expanded and a boutique was opened in Rome. Guccio was responsible
for designing many of the company's products. In 1947, Gucci
introduced the bamboo handle handbag, which is still a company
mainstay. During the 1950s, Gucci also developed the trademark
striped webbing, which was derived from the saddle girth,
and the suede moccasin with a metal horsebit.
His wife Aida Calvelli had a large
family, though only the sons—Vasco, Aldo,Ugo, and Rodolfo—would
play a role in leading the company. After Guccio's death
in 1953, Aldo helped lead the company to a position of International
prominence, opening the company's first boutique in New
York. Rodolfo initially tried to start an acting career
as a matinee idol but soon returned to help direct the company.
Even in Gucci's fledgling years, the family was notorious
for its ferocious infighting. Disputes regarding inheritances,
stock holdings, and day-to-day operations of the stores
often divided the family and led to alliances. Gucci expanded
overseas, board meetings about the company's future often
ended with tempers flaring and luggage and purses flying.
Gucci targeted the Far East for further expansion in the
late 1960s, opening stores in Hong Kong and Tokyo. At that
time, the company also developed its famous GG logo (Guccio
Gucci's initials), the Flora silk scarf (worn prominently
by Hollywood actress Grace Kelly), and the Jackie O shoulder
bag, made famous by Jackie Kennedy, the wife of U.S. President
John F. Kennedy.
Gucci
remained one of the premier luxury goods establishments
in the world until the late 1970s, when a series of disastrous
business decisions and family quarrels brought the company
to the verge of bankruptcy. At the time, brothers Aldo and
Rodolfo controlled equal 50% shares of the company, though
Rodolfo contributed less to the company than Aldo and his
sons did. In 1979, Aldo developed the Gucci Accessories
Collection, or GAC, intended to bolster the sales for the
Gucci Perfumes sector, which his sons controlled. GAC consisted
of small accessories, such as cosmetic bags, lighters, and
pens, which were priced at considerably lower points than
the other items in the company's accessories catalogue.
Aldo relegated control of Perfumes to his son Roberto in
an effort to weaken Rodolfo's control of the overall operations
of the company.
Though the Gucci
Accessories Collection was well received, it proved to be
the force that brought the Gucci dynasty crashing down.
Within a few years, the Perfumes division began outselling
the Accessories division. The newly-founded wholesaling
business had brought the once-exclusive brand to over a
thousand stores in the United States alone with the GAC
line, deteriorating the brand's standing with fashionable
customers. "In the 1960s and 1970s," writes Vanity
Fair editor Graydon Carter, "Gucci had been at the
pinnacle of chic, thanks to icons such as Audrey Hepburn,
Grace Kelly, and Jacqueline Onassis. But by the 1980s, Gucci
had lost its appeal, becoming a tacky airport brand."
Soon, infighting was taking its toll
on the operations of the company back in Italy: Rodolfo
and Aldo squabbled over the Perfumes division, of which
Rodolfo controlled a meager 20% stake. Meanwhile, when Paolo
Gucci, Aldo's son, proposed a cheaper version of the brand
called 'Gucci Plus' in 1983 he fell out with the family.
There was a boardroom quarrel that ended in a fistfight,
and Paolo was reportedly knocked senseless by a telephone
answering machine in the hand of one of his brothers. In
return he reported his own father for tax evasion to the
United States revenue, and Aldo was convicted and imprisoned
on the testimony of his own son. By now, the outrageous
headlines of gossip magazines generated as much publicity
for Gucci as its designs.
Rodolfo's death in 1983 caused a
major shakeup in the company when he left his 50% stake
in Gucci
to his son, Maurizio Gucci. Maurizio allied
with Aldo's son Paolo to gain control of the Board of Directors
and established the Gucci Licensing division in the Netherlands
for this purpose. Following the decision, the rest of the
family left the company and, for the first time in years,
one man was at the helm of Gucci. Maurizio sought to bury
the fighting that had torn the company and his family apart
and turned to talent outside of the company for Gucci's
future.